UNCORKED : Riesling is one of world’s storied grapes
Posted on Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Uncorked is taking the week off. This column was published June 1, 2005.
One hundred years ago, this wine rivaled the best Bordeaux and Burgundies, and it is considered by many to be the most noble of the world’s white grapes. Some think it’s the spiritual leader of the wine lover’s palate.
This mystery grape is Riesling (rees-ling ).
If you find this bit of wine trivia shocking, you are not alone. Most American wine lovers still have a misconception about this grape. At some point in its German history, Riesling became a synonym for “sweet white wine” — and this is why the wine world became confused and possibly has missed out on great Rieslings since. The confusing German wine labels and impossible-to-pronounce styles such as “trockenbeerenauslese” and “spatlese” do not help matters. Rieslings ’ style can vary from bone dry to a little sweet to lusciously sweet. The best examples are quality Rieslings produced in cool climates such as Germany, France, Washington state and Australia’s Eden Valley. Forget the image of cheap and sweet when you think of Riesling, and help other American wine drinkers to understand and appreciate the time-honored Riesling.
THE VALUE 2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle, Johannesburg Riesling, Washington (about $ 11, retail ) If you have not explored Washington state for Riesling you are in for a quality and bargain treat. Chateau Ste. Michelle is the state’s oldest winery, boasting Old World winemaking traditions with New World innovations. The Riesling is able to keep its pure aromas and crisp, fresh qualities in the cool climate of Washington. The nose is elegant and subtle with aromas of apricot and mandarin orange. The palate is dry with a refreshing, crisp, light body confirming the soft notes of apricot and citrus. Because this wine shows up on most restaurants’ wine lists, it is easy to pick as an aperitif, matched with seafood and spicy dishes.
THE SPLURGE 2003 Pierre Sparr — Riesling, France (about $ 22, retail ) When you have been making wines in Alsace, France, for 300 years, as the Sparr family has, you could say your winemaking fundamentals are nearly perfected. Add a growers’ paradise of microclimates protected by the Vosges foothills, the driest and sunniest growing area in France, and you can say Riesling has found its place to flourish. Alsace labels are also American-friendly, being the only French region consistently using “grape names” on the labeling. The nose of the wine is pure and fresh with young Riesling aromas of citrus, green apple and slight orange peel. The dry, medium body expresses a fresh lemon and green apple taste that lingers into a crisp, mouth-watering finish. The quality of this wine is well worth a much higher price, and it’s a refreshing new taste for Chardonnay lovers looking for a place to explore. Lorri Hambuchen has a diploma in wine and spirits from London’s Wine and Spirits Education Trust and is a member of London’s Institute of Wines and Spirits. Send questions or comments to her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P. O. Box 2221, Little Rock, Ark. 72203, or e-mail uncorked@mac. com
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